Caffeine is no longer just for the morning. This simple, effective ingredient is gaining traction in the beauty world thanks to its popularity on TikTok and support from celebrities who claim that caffeine-infused skin care products are a quick and affordable way to improve your face. Why Caffeine is Added to Skin Care Products It may sound too good to be true, but caffeine skin care enthusiasts may be on to something. Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor, meaning it makes blood vessels smaller and tighter, says Jeffrey Hsu, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist and co-director of Oak Dermatology in Chicago. “Using caffeine in skin care reduces blood flow to the skin, making it appear brighter and firmer,” says Dr. Hsu. “It’s often found in face care, eye care, and even body care as an anti-aging and wrinkle-smoothing ingredient.” The key to making skin care products work effectively is the right formulation. Especially when used in the right amount, caffeine can be an effective ingredient in refreshing the skin, eliminating dark circles under the eyes, and reducing facial puffiness. Some studies, including one published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in August 2020, have shown that caffeine molecules are small enough to pass through the top layer of the skin, so they can actually penetrate the skin and work intradermally, Professor Hsu explains. It’s worth noting that just because a product claims to contain caffeine doesn’t mean it will have the effect you’re looking for, he says. “For caffeine to be effective, as mentioned above, it must be applied in highly concentrated doses,” says Hsu. “I always encourage my patients to use medical-grade skin care products that are backed by product formulation, ingredient transparency, and controlled studies that prove efficacy.” When evaluating skin care labels, marketing jargon like “clinically proven” and “pro-grade” are not necessarily synonymous with “medical grade,” adds Hsu. “Medical-grade products are dispensed in clinics or medical spas that have a medical director overseeing operations.” Potential Benefits of Caffeine Skin Care Products Caffeine acts primarily through the circulation, so it’s fast-acting, protects against oxidative stress, and has anti-inflammatory effects on the skin, says Ife Rodney, M.D., board-certified dermatologist and founder of Eternal Dermatology and Aesthetics in Fulton, Maryland. Caffeine may also protect against photodamage, such as fine lines and wrinkles after sun exposure. “Research shows that consuming caffeine after exposure to UVA and UVB rays can be beneficial,” Dr. Rodney says. “While the lift and protection from oxidative stress is immediate, the benefits can wear off over time. Skin care products should also include other active ingredients to help repair your skin.” Rodney says other skin-friendly ingredients include aloe, tea tree oil, shea butter, vitamin C, and jojoba oil. “They all contain antioxidants, which slow oxidative stress and may also help repair damaged cells,” she explains. Speaking of sun-kissed skin, Hsu says there is a growing body of animal research suggesting that caffeine may have anti-carcinogenic properties. “For example, in one study conducted in mice, topically applied caffeine promoted apoptosis, or cell death, in sun-damaged cells,” he says, citing a paper published in December 2021 in the Journal of Biology, Medicine, and Biochemistry. “Researchers concluded that topical caffeine causes actual cell death in squamous cell carcinoma and benign skin tumors.” Squamous cell carcinoma is a type of skin cancer. Of course, large-scale clinical trials are needed to determine whether the same anticancer effects are seen in humans. Are there any downsides to using caffeine in skin care? Rodney says the main drawback is that caffeine’s effects on the skin are only visible for a short period of time (about the length of a cup of coffee). “Caffeine is a temporary solution and won’t cure wrinkles or bags under the eyes,” she says. “You should invest in other skin care items that work well with this product and can improve your specific skin issues long-term.” Examples include cleansers with salicylic acid, serums with vitamin C and niacinamide, moisturizers with ceramides, and broad-spectrum sunscreens, Rodney suggests. Caffeine can also irritate the skin and cause redness due to increased blood flow. If you have sensitive skin or a caffeine sensitivity, you may want to start by testing a small amount of this ingredient on a small area of your skin. “We recommend doing a small patch test, about the size of a dime, behind your ears or on your jawline,” says Sue. “Try it a few times and see how your skin reacts before using it.” Dermatologist-favorite caffeine skin care products One of the most popular skin care products is Inkey Caffeine Eye Cream ($9.99, Sephora.com). Actor Gemma Chan and musician Alana Haim reportedly swear by this formula to reduce morning eye puffiness. According to a March 2022 paper in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, it contains a popular anti-aging peptide called Matrixyl 3000, which is known to boost anti-wrinkle effects, but more research is needed to determine how well it penetrates the skin. And it’s not the only product that contains caffeine. This ingredient is also found in serums, body scrubs, and even cellulite treatments. Keep in mind that caffeine’s skin care properties make it better suited for some types of products than others. For example, caffeinated lotions are one product you should avoid consuming. Caffeine toners are unlikely to offer any more benefits than other toners on the market, Rodney says, because the levels of caffeine in toners are very low and their effects last very short. Creams and serums with caffeine can be more effective, she says. If you want to try the trend of incorporating caffeine into your skin care, dermatologists recommend the following products: 1. Biossance Squalane + Caffeine Toning Body Cream According to Rodney, this product is a mix of caffeine and plant-based derivatives. Plant-based derivatives are active ingredients that help soothe the skin, accelerate cell metabolism, and increase hydration. She points out that it also contains squalene, which April 2022 Biotech Trends research suggests can moisturize the skin. Biossance Squalane + Caffeine Toning Body Cream, $28, Sephora.com 2. InterFuse Treatment Cream EYE This medical-grade product contains Kakadu plum extract, which is rich in antioxidants that help fight free radicals that break down collagen, which contributes to the signs of premature aging that cause fine lines and wrinkles, Sue says. A study published in the International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Investigations in 2018 found that Kakadu plum extract retained high antioxidant activity even after being added to creams. InterFuse Treatment Cream EYE, $110, Skinbetter.com 3. The Ordinary Caffeine 5% + ECGC Depuffing Eye Serum Rodney likes this product because the caffeine comes from green tea, which has more antioxidants than the caffeine from coffee. “Antioxidants are great for repairing the delicate skin under the eyes,” she says. Rodney points out that it also contains hyaluronic acid to keep the skin under the eyes plump and hydrated. Research supports the idea that hyaluronic acid helps rejuvenate the skin and stimulates the production of collagen, which keeps the skin firm and elastic. The Ordinary Caffeine 5% + ECGC Depuffing Eye Serum, $7.50, Sephora.com 4. ZO Skin Health Cellulite Control Cream Recommended by Sue, this medical-grade product contains plankton extract to moisturize the skin in addition to caffeine. A review published in June 2020 in Marine Drugs suggests that marine-derived ingredients such as algae may have a variety of skin-supporting benefits, from reducing pigmentation to reducing wrinkles. ZO Skin Health Cellulite Control Cream, $98, ZOSkinHealth.com Summary Caffeine is gaining popularity as an important skin care ingredient, and for good reason. It temporarily constricts blood vessels to reduce puffiness, giving your skin a fresh, taut look just like your favorite Instagram filter. The effects are noticeable, but temporary. Your best bet may be to use a product that combines caffeine with ingredients that promote long-term skin repair, such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and seaweed. Be aware that caffeine applied to the skin can be absorbed into the bloodstream. If you are sensitive to caffeine, use caution with caffeine and ask your dermatologist if it is appropriate for your skin care needs. Additional reporting by Elena Barrera.
